Fuel Transfer Tanks, and some fuel storage tips
Fluids are always an issue.
Heavy. Bulky. Moving when you don’t want them to move.
Add in something that’s flammable or combustible, and you have even more potential worries.
One of the solutions I’ve been using in my pickup is a transfer tank. You’ve probably seen them in the beds of commercial trucks, flatbeds and pickup trucks. Usually decorated with a red Fill-Rite 12 volt pump on a top corner. I’m specifically a diesel guy, so my fuel issues are a bit different from gasoline issues, but there’s still lots of overlap concerning storage, transportation and utilities.
What’s the difference between the transfer tank and the auxiliary fuel tank? Well, not a whole heckuva lot. Both hold fuel. Both dispense fuel. Both look basically the same. Legally, the transfer tank can not be used as a connected auxiliary fuel tank, whereas the aux tank already has that legal issue dealt with. Not to mention the design is usually a bit nicer than just a DIY tank mod, like many folks do. Personally, even though I’d love to have an Aerotank or Transferflow, I can’t afford them. So I have just a basic transfer tank, with a Graco fuel pump, auxiliary filter, and a digital flow meter. It does the trick, and it’s more flexible than just an auxiliary tank – if I need to fuel up a generator, another vehicle, or just dump fuel into my storage tanks, I just fire up the pump and go do it. Most of the auxiliary tanks that are out there are not designed to work as transfer tanks too, but there are a few companies out there that do have a dual duty style…but again, you will pay quite a bit more for it. I don’t mind paying a thousand less and pulling over every four hours to top off the tank. Heck, that’s about my limit for sitting in one place anyway.
The two different types of fuel transfer that auxiliary tanks use are gravity feed, and solenoid activated gravity feed. With the low tech gravity feed, you don’t have to do anything – other than keep your main tank cap on. I guarantee someone will leave it off once though, and you’ll wind up dumping fuel on the ground. You might only do that once but it can still be an expensive lesson to learn. Then, of course, there are the issues that happen when someone else uses your vehicle…
If you do want to try this method out, it’s pretty simple. All it amounts to is a “T” fitting in the main fuel fill hose and a auxiliary or transfer tank that has a fuel bung mounted low. Don’t say I didn’t warn you though.
What I do like are the solenoid actuated systems, and for that matter it’d be relatively easy to hook up a manual fuel dump valve that would feed transfer tank contents into your main fuel tank. Not hard to do a system that you could either actuate from the drivers seat, or from the bed of the truck.
Of course, you can always do like I have, and just use a regular transfer tank. There are plenty of decent ones being made out there – RDS, Better Built, Weather Guard, Transferflow, Aerotank are a few that have a good product.
The other issue you have to deal with on the transfer tank is how do you get the fuel from point “A” to point “B”? You’ll need some kind of fuel pump (even though you can siphon quite nicely from them), fuel hose, and fill nozzle. I haven’t seen any fuel pump out there that are junk. All of them do the trick, but you’ll have to decide which one to go with depending on your usage pattern, how fast you need a fill, etc. Manual pumps usually run around a gallon for ten pumps of the handle, while the electric pumps will go up to 30 gallons a minute, if your fuel tank can handle that rate. Most can’t get anywhere near that, but the larger tanks on full size trucks can, as can most of the diesel tanks on military vehicles.
If you’re really,really frugal, you can always modify a used fuel tank off of a junked car or truck. But there are definite trade-offs here – mounting can be an issue, as can safety. You’ll also commonly find that the fuel tanks (unless they’re aluminum or stainless) have got a nice coat of rust on the inside that has to be dealt with. For some of us though, it’s worth it. It’s something I’ve done in the past.
As to fuel storage, there are a few basic things with it. One major thing is watch the safety issues – ground everything. What you don’t need is a spark while opening/closing/or filling. It’ll spoil your day. Store the fuel drums off of the ground – direct contact will give you corrosion issues down the line. Don’t store the tanks half full, you ideally want them as full as possible. It’ll help with corrosion inside the tanks, and condensation issues also. Make sure you have easy access to the storage. Have a few fire extinguishers handy – I like the CO2 style, but the powder and foam ones are great also. Make sure that the area is signed as a no smoking/no open flame area. I also try not to use radios in the area – cell phones are one issue, but if you’re also into Ham radio you know how much power can be put out by a rig, and corona/static effects.
My basic storage system is 55 Gallon fuel drums that originally held transmission fluid (sourced them from a local fuel supplier for $20 each), and a manual Fill-Rite pump. Ground straps are clamped on, and the drums are stored off the ground on strips of Apatong wood.
One of the major benefits to the whole bulk fuel storage is the ability to be able to buy at a drop in the price. Another benefit that most folks don’t realize is that there are big differences in seasonal fuel blends. Differences that will effect economy, power and storage life span. Do some research in your own area, and find what the best season for fuel is.
-Greg
Read this article twice and you will get an understanding that this concept is an accident waiting to happen. This is an idiot idea and not legal in many states. This concept does not have the engineering required for flammable / combustible liquid tanks mounted on vehicles. What happens if involved in an accident. Modifying a vehicle as described may just void your vehicle insurance.
Hello Mr. Schall,
Thank you for your comment on my blog post. You might consider this an “idiot idea”, and it might not be legal in some states as you mention. I would be interested in what, specifically, you disagree with. The amount of fuel? The container material? Pumps? In transit auxiliary tank designs? Transfer tank designs? Baffles? Drop tests? Permeability testing? The utility of used fuel tanks from other vehicles? Or what, exactly?
As to what happens in an accident, if the tanks are properly installed, they’re as sturdy as OEM systems.
Now one thing I might have put more emphasis on is that I’m using primarily a combustible liquid tank, not a flammable materials tank. There are only a few manufacturers that make flammables tanks for the small truck crowd, but they also have undergone tests and meet the appropriate standards.
The engineering concept has been approved for some of the manufacturer’s products, namely TransferFlow, and Aerotank. Transfer-Flow, you might be interested in hearing, meets FMVSS 301 (Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards), VESC-22 (Vehicle Equipment Safety Commission), NFPA 1192, ANSI 119.2, RVIA (Recreational Vehicle Industry Association) regulations, CARB (California Air Resources Board), and EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) regulations, for vehicles under 10k GVWR. They are crash tested to FMVSS 301 standards, attachment systems meet NFPA, ANSI and RVIA standards. In addition they meet EPA and CARB standards.
For those larger vehicles “For Vehicles Greater Than 10,000 GVW
Transfer Flow fuel systems meet VESC-22 (Vehicle Equipment Safety Commission), NFPA 1192, ANSI 119.2, RVIA (Recreation Vehicle Industry Association), CARB (California Air Resources Board) and EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) regulations.”
You might want to peruse the pertinent page at Transfer Flow – http://www.transferflow.com/fuel_tank_regulations.html. Most of the other manufacturers have similiar pages, and as is stated on some of them “state laws will vary”.
If you would like further information on other manufacturers, I would be happy to forward some links.
I look forward to your reply.
Regards,
Greg Trent
Where are you from sheldon schall??? Not going to call you an idiot like you did towards the guy who wrote this up but you shouldnt be running your mouth unless you know about what your talking about…. Atleast have an idea of what is getting talked about… lol slip tanks are extremely popular and nessesary to have as a operator of heavy equipment!!! Like how do you think the machine gets fueled up everyday? Or do you figure they just drive er up town and pull into a gas station? These fuel tanks are engineered and built to be put into the box of a truck and are secured to the box of the truck…. Slip tanks are double walled and use baffles inside the tank to prevent sloshing so they dont effect the truck while driving and you can add airbags or an extra leaf spring if your truck is squatting from the weight… I know for a fact it will not “void warranty” of your vehicle… If your going to comment your two cents atleast google it or do your research on the topic because your not makin sense ✌
Hes probably one of the most qualified people in wisconsin to talk about it. Ha. Hes a legend in the petro industry. google him.
Great info!
I’ve been considering a 100 gallon aluminum tank from an 18 wheeler for the back of my pickup. Diesel regulations are much more lax then gasoline. One thing to consider with that amount of fuel is the weight. Another alternative is to use a 50 gallon tank from a refrigerated trailer.
If I get a 50 gallon tank it might stay in the pickup all of the time. These tanks would be primarily to transport fuel home to my 55 gallon drums and my home heating oil storage tank . My pickup has a 35 gallon tank from the factory so running out of fuel isn’t a big deal. If I feel the need I can siphon from the tank in the bed to the factory tank in a pinch.
I’m getting ready to fill my 55 gallon drums soon and I think a worthwhile thing to do would be to coat the inside of the tank (at least the bottom part) with the epoxy coating that is used to restore metal motorcycle tanks. Fuel oil (gas, diesel and kerosene) is lighter than water and the rust on the inside of the tank would start on the bottom seam if the tanks are stored upright. Ethanol gasoline (oxygenated) will only exacerbate this because of its chemical attraction to water.
I appreciate the fact that you didn’t react to the first posters inflammatory remarks, but tried to educate him instead.
Q; I see most of the transfer tanks and big in bed fuel tanks are rated for combustible (diesel) but not flammable (gasoline). What is the difference or is there really one? Is it safe to carry gas in a diesel tank. Can a diesel tank be made to carry gasoline safe?
FYI, In Texas you can not store more than 110 gallons in a tank on a truck without DOT registration of the vehicle.
Good post.